What makes a wave epic?

Nazaré, Portugal. Where surfers flock to surf some of the most formidable waves in the world. But what makes Nazaré so special? Well let this awesome group of Portuguese High School students explain it to you. Shoaling! Refraction! Interference! A big ass canyon! This video has got ALL THE PHYSICS.

More on this project here and here. Ocean literacy for the win!

OH HAI GIANT CRUSHING WAVE. [Photo by Jorge Santos]

OH HAI GIANT CRUSHING WAVE. [Photo by Jorge Santos]

Dr. Martini (131 Posts)

Kim is a Physical Oceanographer at the Joint Institute for the Study of Atmosphere and Ocean at the University of Washington. She received her Ph.D. from the University of Washington in 2010. Her goal in life is to throw expensive s**t in the ocean. When not at sea, she uses observations from moored, satellite and land-based instruments to understand the pathways that wind and tidal energy take from large (internal tides) to small scales (turbulence).

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