What makes a wave epic?

Nazaré, Portugal. Where surfers flock to surf some of the most formidable waves in the world. But what makes Nazaré so special? Well let this awesome group of Portuguese High School students explain it to you. Shoaling! Refraction! Interference! A big ass canyon! This video has got ALL THE PHYSICS.

More on this project here and here. Ocean literacy for the win!

OH HAI GIANT CRUSHING WAVE. [Photo by Jorge Santos]

OH HAI GIANT CRUSHING WAVE. [Photo by Jorge Santos]

Dr. Martini (156 Posts)

Kim is a Senior Oceanographer at Sea-Bird Scientific. She received her Ph.D. in Physical Oceanography from the University of Washington in 2010. Her goal in life is to throw expensive s**t in the ocean. When not at sea, she has used observations from moored, satellite and land-based instruments to understand the pathways that wind and tidal energy take from large (internal tides) to small scales (turbulence). Her current mission is to make your oceanographic data be the best data it can be.

One Reply to “What makes a wave epic?”

  1. Camilla! Var det här du var ute och surfade en gång i världen? Ser kul ut! kram wivi

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